Wednesday, June 11, 2014

"What's that big clock tower in Boston?"

There are some questions visitors always ask. "Where is the closest bathroom" usually tops the list, and "is that Ben Franklin" when they see the "Franklin" monument in the Granary Burying Ground is also popular. Another top-tier inquiry is "what's that big clock tower?"

The big clock tower in question is the the old custom house. Not actually our oldest custom house ever, its domed base was built in 1847 to replace an older building which was itself a replacement to our original. The tower completed in 1915, making it the tallest building in Boston until 1964. Just off State Street in McKinley Square, the custom house was built just steps away from Long Wharf, where much of Boston's shipping arrived in the 19th century.

While this particular building has no exciting history of note (though it did play a prominent role in Boston scribe Dennis Lehane's novel Prayers for Rain), it is iconic in Boston's waterfront skyline. Currently under the management of Marriott, it serves as a luxury hotel. What many people who see it don't know though is that the base of the building is still very much open to the public. Go inside and get literature free of charge from the front desk, and then you can take a tour through the antebellum structure's breathtaking Greek revival interior, including the original dome, which resides underneath the tower today. Hanging from the ceiling around the dome, you will find very strange flags, representing prominent merchant houses of the custom house's hayday: J.H. Shattuck & Co., Z. Azarian & Co., John Mayo & Co., Gilden & Williams, H. Oxnard, and Brocker & Stugis (see photos below).

A view from under the dome
There's also a collection of maritime artifacts on loan from the Peabody-Essex Museum on the second floor, along with some very thorough explanatory signage. Among the artifacts, you will find a captain's hat and regalia, a 19th century spyglass, and a sextant: great eye candy for those who love adventure on the high seas.
Flags for J.H. Shattuck & Co. and Z. Azarian & Co.

Left flag unattributed. Right flag represents John Mayo & Co. 

Left flag unattributed. Right flag represents Gilden & Williams.

Flags for H. Oxnard and Brockner & Stugis
Marriott's custom house has tours, which are the only way the public can get to the really stellar observation deck. They are every day but Friday at 2pm and 6pm. I recommend the 2pm, as it only costs $4, whereas the 6pm ranges from $7.50 to $15! Save those bucks and buy a colonial a drink at the Green Dragon or something!

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